‘Lobstah’ rolls with staying power

Never trust a lobster roll made by a non-New Englander. I came to that conclusion ever since eating my way through Maine on a press trip some years ago, and then later meeting Peter DeCoste of Pete’s Seafood and Sandwich in North Park.

If your so-called “classic” lobster roll is drenched in mayo to the point where you can’t see the red threads in the meat, or if celery mingles throughout, you are not eating the real deal.

DeCoste is a native Bostonian who opened his fast-casual eatery here in 2015. His lobster rolls and other back-East fare such as lightly battered Ipswich clams and chicken cutlet Parmesan are as authentic and reliable as his Eastern New England accent.

Equally commendable is that DeCoste regularly jumps into the daily fray of the business, often chatting with customers as he delivers his specialties to their tables.

“I’m the owner, chief cook and bottle washer,” he quipped while adding that he closes the restaurant only three days a year, and hasn’t taken a full day off since Christmas of 2015. “I always have projects to do on those three days of closure.”

No doubt, his front-line presence and hospitality are among the keys to his success.

DeCoste uses claw and knuckle meat in his delectable lobster rolls, noting that he imports about 500 pounds of it per month from coastal Maine. Lobster season there is year-round, so there’s always a steady flow.

Lunch or dinner at Pete’s potentially begins with an order of fried mushrooms or calamari—or better yet, a bowl of hearty New England clam chowder. The latter is a recipe taught to him by his father who was a cook in a restaurant for 50 years. The chowder sports a semi-thick texture and a comforting, subtle flavor.

It’s nearly impossible for me to pass up the buttery lobster rolls when I visit— although I can vouch for the Italian cold cut sandwich stacked with salami, capicola, mortadella, Provolone and veggies. Request a little extra oil and vinegar on it and you’ve scored a genuine back-East bomber.

The fried shrimp with freshly cut fries are also noteworthy. The plate features nearly a half-pound of Mexican white shrimp that are dusted thinly in a blend of corn and white flours—and without seasonings as to allow the natural sweetness of the cornflour and the shrimp to ring through. The same flour blend is used on the never-frozen Atlantic cod for fish and chips.

DeCoste shows the same traditional respect to lobster, hence the reason that only a tad of mayo is permitted to interfere with the meat’s sweet, delicate flavor. Although buttered rolls also come into play as a natural enhancement to the construct.

“The lobster is the star of the show,” DeCoste pointed out. “Some places on the East Coast do lettuce and celery, but that’s not so common.”

The lobster-roll sandwiches are available cold (Maine style) or hot (Connecticut style). Either way, you get substantial meat in each, enough to produce chunky pieces that tumble onto your plate as a meal bonus.

The actual rolls are sourced from an East Coast bakery. By design, they’re known as “split tops.” They resemble inside-out hot dog rolls, allowing the cooks to butter and grill them from the outside.

About a year ago, DeCoste introduced a rotating list of Tuesday specials. Those dishes include cheese steaks, Reuben sandwiches, baked haddock, and ‘American chop suey,’ which translates to a goulash of ground beef, elbow macaroni and tomatoes. “It’s a New England thing,” said DeCoste.

When asked if San Diego can expect to see another Pete’s Seafood and Sandwich come ashore in the future, DeCoste said, “We have definitely been thinking about a second location somewhere north of here and probably more coastal. But nothing is in the works yet.”

Pete’s Seafood and Sandwich

3382 30th St. (North Park)

619-255-8940; bostonpetes.com

Prices: Soups, salads and starters, $5 to $14; lobster rolls and other seafood sandwiches, $16 to $25; non-seafood sandwiches, $12 to $15; combo plates, $15 to $27

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